Introduction

The keeping of pet snakes, lizards and chelonians (shelled reptiles) is still a relatively new hobby and many pet owners start from a high level of ignorance about their pet. Many do not even know which species of reptile they have bought or the correct diet and housing needs for the pet. Consequently poor husbandry is a major factor leading to malnutrition, debilitation and illness in pet reptiles.

Ectothermy

All reptiles are exothermic, meaning they are unable to generate metabolic heat and rely instead on the temperature of their environment. This basically means they draw their heat from the environment and not from their food. An advantage of this is that they need not waste energy maintaining body temperature–consequently most reptiles have a much slower metabolism with a metabolic rate only 25-35% that of mammals.

As ambient environmental temperature plays a vital role in reptile metabolism, food gathering and digestion, pet owners must provide the correct thermal range in captivity. This thermal range will depend on whether the animal comes from a temperate, F10SC  subtropical or tropical climate. The majority of reptiles come from the tropics where it is warm all year round. Those that come from cooler climates have to hibernate when the temperature drops. Diurnal temperatures for tropical reptiles range from 26-37°C while temperate reptiles need a range of 24-29°C. Exact thermal requirements for every reptile species are available from reference books.

Housing

Due to their need for constant heat, reptiles must be kept contained either in a vivarium or heated enclosure. The vivarium should be rectangular to allow for a temperature gradient (i.e., hot end and cool end) and as large as possible to avoid problems with dominance and bullying. Territorial males tend to get more access to food and heat, allowing both increased food intake and more efficient digestion. The minimum requirement for lizards is three times the animal’s length and two times its width. Arboreal (tree living) lizards just like the iguana need increased cage height at 2-3 times the animal’s length.

The design of the tank can be chosen from two approaches. The minimalist sterile tank with newspaper and bare essentials (as in for example a hospital tank) or a more aesthetically pleasing environment with major emphasis on enriching the pets surroundings. The advantage of this naturalistic tank design is a less stressed, leaner and healthier reptile. The disadvantage is that cage hygiene may suffer and F10SC Veterinary Disinfectant can occur from the reptile ingesting the substrate.

Cage furniture should be supplied according to the animal’s needs. Arboreal reptiles like the iguana and chameleon need branches and foliage while terrestrial animals like tortoises and geckos need shelters. Secretive animals like the royal python need hidey holes as they like to eat in dark privacy. It is essential that tanks for snakes are secured with locks as they are notorious for their ability to wriggle out through tiny crevices and end up days later in a neighbour’s apartment!

Temperature

Heating should be provided to take care of the POTZ (Preferred optimum temperature zone). This is the thermal range of the reptile’s natural habitat at which it functions optimally and has a maximum immune response. This can be provided by a heat lamp or heat pad or both. The heat pad should not occupy more than 30% of the tank and there must be no direct contact between either the heat pad and heat lamp as thermal burns are common. Heat pads should be placed under or attached to the side of the vivarium and heat lamps should be protected by wire mesh. Hot rocks are not recommended. A thermometer should be placed at each end of the tank to give accurate temperature readings.

The type of heating will depend upon whether the reptile may be a heliotherm or a thigmotherm. Heat lamps are best for heliotherms–these are reptiles which derive radiant heat from the sun and include diurnal species that enjoys the sun. Heat pads can be used for thigmotherms–these include the nocturnal (e.g., leopard gecko) and crepuscular species that obtain their heat via conduction.

UV Light/Photoperiod

All diurnal reptiles need visible daylight and therefore the photoperiod will depend upon their natural habitat. Temperate reptiles should have 13-15 hours light in summer and only 9-12 hours in winter. Providing too long a photoperiod can lead to ovarian follicle problems and obesity.

F10SC Veterinary Disinfectant Ultraviolet light is important for reproduction and Vitamin D absorption. Lack of UVB range leads to lack of vitamin D and subsequent nutritional osteodystrophy (metabolic bone disease). UV lights must be provided and located within 30cm of the reptile’s basking area for maximum effect. They should be changed every 6 months. Traditionally UVB lights were fluorescent (tubular) but incandescent bulbs which provide both heat and UV light are now available. However as these can get very hot they can only be used in larger enclosures. Natural sunlight is the best source of ultraviolet light of all but must be unfiltered as UVB cannot penetrate through glass.

Humidity

Humidity is very important to aid shedding (ecdysis) and prevent dehydration. The relative humidity for each species is available from reference books and a hygrometer is essential to give accurate readings. Humidity can be provided by mist spraying, water features, shallow water dishes or humidity chambers in focal parts of the tank. Live potted plants and moistened substrate would also help. Increasing F10SC Veterinary Disinfectant must not however be at the expense of poor ventilation as this will only lead to the buildup of bacteria and fungal problems.

Substrate

The floor material is an important consideration for terrestrial or burrowing species, Newspaper, reptile mats and Astroturf are easy to keep clean but not aesthetic.