Stitching the upper leather, lining leather, and welt (a specially prepared piece of leather) to the ribbing that has already been bonded to the insole gives Goodyear Welted construction its strength, durability, and repair qualities. Following that, the welt is stitched to the leather or rubber sole. We can cut through the final stitch that holds the sole in place, allowing us to remove the sole completely without injuring the top.
The Goodyear Welted construction is costly, time-consuming, and labor-intensive. It also necessitates highly skilled craftsmanship. Despite the fact that it was invented hundreds of years ago, it is still regarded as one of the best methods of shoe building today.
A SHORT HISTORY
All Crockett & Jones shoes are produced with the Goodyear Welted construction, which is synonymous with high-quality, handcrafted English footwear. The craftsmen and women at the factory in Northampton, England, have mastered this technology, which was devised by an American named Charles Goodyear Jr.
In 1871, Charles Goodyear Jr. patented his Goodyear Welt sewing machine, which could stitch the welt, upper, and soles together swiftly without the inefficient tedium of hand-sewing. At the turn of the century, the Goodyear Welted machine was brought into Crockett & Jones, causing significant disruption among manufacturing workers, resulting in a factory walkout! Thankfully, this was swiftly remedied, and the firm quickly learned how to operate its new Goodyear Welting equipment.
CONSTRUCTION GUIDE FOR GOODYEAR SHOES
Knowing how a pair of dress shoes is made is the key to telling the difference between good and premium grade footwear. It is the procedures utilised in its creation, not the level of exquisiteness of the materials chosen for its manufacture or the location where it was created, that will determine not just its price, but also its useful life.
It is a technique based on double stitching that was made possible by Charles Goodyear Jr.’s invention of a sewing machine patented in 1871 that allowed the different parts of the shoe to be assembled very quickly, replacing the monotonous manual procedures that prevailed in an industry that was undergoing a true revolution.
The Goodyear Welted is a classic process that is synonymous with true craft shoes. It is explained below why it is considered one of the world’s best ways of footwear manufacture.
The Goodyear process is distinguished by its exceptional effectiveness in connecting the various components of the shoe. A first stitching connects the shoe’s body to the welt, a thick strip that serves as reinforcement for the footwear, and a second exterior stitching secures the sole to this piece. This results in increased strength.
Because there are no apparent seams, the soles are more durable, and only heavy use of the soles will cause them to deteriorate. On the other side, this approach enables for sole replacement after many years of use if necessary.
Between the insole and the outsole, there is a resonated cork bed that serves two purposes. On the one hand, the agglomerate functions as a heat insulator, while on the other hand, it ensures a high level of flexibility because your footprint will be inscribed on it after the first use, boosting levels of comfort.