Rolex is called the quintessence of expensive Swiss watches. Prestigious, high-quality, reliable and comfortable, they are always relevant.

Difference from other brands

The fundamental principle of Rolex is the precision of movements. Back in 1910, the brand produced the first chronometer-certified wristwatch that equaled marine chronometers in accuracy. Since then, the company has prioritized maximum precision. All current Rolex models are certified chronometers, while few Swiss watch brands even have such models in their collections.

Unlike other brands, Rolex is very conservative. This is expressed in the design and construction of the watch. All collections are made in a classic style. The company’s aesthetics, honed over the years and decades, does not change: a round case, an adequate diameter, a reliable bracelet, a laconic dial design – three hands, date, contrasting marks. Rolex is out of fashion watches. They are suitable for people with established tastes.

Rolex is valued for its stability and adherence to tradition in the manufacture of watch movements. The company does not pursue innovation for the sake of innovation, does not risk the reliability of mechanisms for the sake of complex improvements and experimental materials, does not expand the range for the sake of a new audience. All mechanisms are created by hand according to traditional techniques honed over decades. Also learn how to buy Rolex with crypto. 

How to choose a watch

Every year, Rolex releases about half a million watches in dozens of collections. The model range cannot be called wide, as the brand has a fundamental approach to the development of each model and spends a lot of time on it. However, there are a lot of options and the choice can be difficult.

Watch materials

The main materials of Rolex watches are gold in several alloys, expensive grade of 904L stainless steel, and less often platinum. These materials are resistant to corrosion and wear, while being easily polished and always looking luxurious.

Conservatives choose gold models. Yellow gold is a classic. Fans of conciseness will like the white alloy models. The most decorative and elegant are rose gold watches. If you’ve settled on this option, check out the Everose alloy, which is created using a special technology and cast in the Rolex manufactory.

Steel watches are suitable for sports and an active lifestyle. They are less subject to wear and are more resistant to extreme conditions – salt water, temperature extremes, pressure. Rolex sporty steel models retain the brand’s elegant and noble look.

There are far fewer platinum models in the Rolex collections than gold and steel ones. These are the most expensive and prestigious watches of the brand. But you need to remember that platinum is heavier than gold or steel by about a third, which is felt when wearing a watch.

Rolex does not use innovative materials in its models, as they have not been tested by years of constant watch wear. Reliability is one of the brand’s core principles, and Rolex doesn’t risk it for the sake of innovation. In isolated cases, the company manufactures individual body parts from special hard ceramics.

Movements and calibers

Without exception, all Rolex watches are mechanical. Quartz movements are not used even in women’s decorative collections. Mechanics is much more valuable than quartz, as it requires a high skill of a watchmaker. Such watches have limitations – for example, they need to be wound regularly and carefully worn.

Rolex movements are entirely made in the brand’s own manufactories. The company independently designs calibers, melts gold, assembles and finishes mechanisms. Most of the work is done by hand.

The caliber 3135 from the base 31xx range is regarded as Rolex’s finest caliber. This is the most reliable model, which is installed in the watches of the Submariner, Deepsea, Sea-Dweller collections. The mechanism has an automatic winding. It was tested at the COSC institute and received a chronometer certificate. The Parachrom caliber oscillator is resistant to mechanical damage and is equipped with a special balance spiral that does not react to temperature changes, magnetic fields and shocks. Caliber 3130 from the same line is included in the list of the best self-winding calibers in the world.

The caliber 3255 from the new 32xx line is the most accurate of the Rolex brand. It is twice the accuracy threshold for chronometers. This caliber uses the same oscillator and the Chronergy movement is more efficient, giving it an extra 70 hours of power reserve. The model is equipped with an automatic winding system. This caliber is installed in the watches of the Day-Date collection.

Watch functions

Classic Rolex watches are limited to the function of displaying time and date. First of all, the brand focuses on an audience that is not interested in frills and complications in watches, especially when they are not used in life, but are needed only for prestige and status. Therefore, when choosing the functionality of a Rolex watch, you need to focus on a real need.

The list of additional functions of Rolex watches, implemented in individual models, includes a chronograph, a day and night indicator, a second time zone, and moon phases. The company does not produce movements with such complex improvements as the repeater or tourbillon, as they inevitably reduce the reliability and practicality of the watch.

Case shape and size

The Rolex watch case has a round shape with lugs elongated at the top and bottom for attaching the bracelet. This characteristic of the brand is repeated in all collections – from the classic Day-Date to the sporty Submariner.

There are several models in the Cellini Time series with a rectangular case. The brand does not have watches with non-standard shapes – oval, octagonal, “ton”. Consequently, the choice is limited to two options, with a rectangular Rolex case being several times less popular than a round one.

The classic Rolex case size for men’s watches is 40 mm. This is the golden mean in modern models: a neat, but rather big size for good readability and an elegant look. Approximately two-thirds of watches are made with this diameter. At the same time, there is always a choice of other sizes: from 36 to 45 mm, for any wrist width and for every taste.

The average case diameter for women’s models is 36 mm. Additionally, there are many options with small sizes for an elegant narrow wrist – 26, 28, 29, 31, 34 mm. There are only a few large watches in women’s collections, the maximum possible diameter is 41 mm.

Bracelets and clasps

A distinctive feature of Rolexes is that metal bracelets are more often used instead of leather straps, adopted in the classic lines of many Swiss brands. Rolex bracelets and clasps are ergonomic and comfortable to wear. High strength is achieved through a special design of solid links.

The main types of bracelets from the brand:

  • Oyster with flat 3-row links for professional and classic watches,
  • Elegant President,
  • Rare and stylish five-row Jubilee,
  • Luxurious Pearlmaster,
  • Steel Glideclock for diving models.

Athletes and fans of an active lifestyle are more comfortable using bracelets with the Easylink extension system, which allows you to adjust the length of the bracelet to be worn over or under clothing.

There are also several options for Rolex clasps: Oysterclasp, Oysterclock, hidden Crownclasp. All clasps are protected against accidental opening, so that the watch does not accidentally slip off your hand.

Collections and models

All Rolex collections can be divided into two parts: classic and sporty. The former are suitable for a business suit: these are the legendary Day-Date watches, the exquisite Cellini, the practical Datejust, the spectacular Pearlmaster, the stylish Oyster Perpetual.

Sports and professional collections are designed for active activities: for various sports, diving, racing, yachting. These series include Air-King, Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Sky-Dweller, Yacht-Master, Deepsea and others.

When choosing a Rolex watch, it is advisable to first focus on a specific collection that suits your needs in spirit and functionality, and only then select a specific model. Each series has options with different case sizes, dial design, and a set of functions.

How to wind a Rolex watch

The complexity of the mechanism winding must also be taken into account when choosing a watch. Almost all Rolex models are equipped with self-winding movements. This is very convenient – while wearing, the position of the watch is constantly changing, which causes a special sector inside the case to start the spring. Therefore, if you wear a Rolex constantly, manual winding is not required. But watchmakers advise sometimes (but infrequently) winding them manually so that the mechanism lasts longer.

A Rolex watch should only be manually wound after it has been stationary for more than the stated power reserve. Classic models with one dial and no additional functions start up easily. You need to unscrew the crown counterclockwise until it begins to move freely. Then start the watch – turn the crown clockwise, making several tens of full turns. And at the end, press it, returning it to its original position.

Rolex watches cannot be wound more than necessary. The movement has a device that locks the crown after it is fully wound.

Models with complex functions must be started strictly according to the instructions. If you do not have instructions, they can be viewed on the official Rolex website in the section of the same name.

How to distinguish an original from a fake

Rolex is counterfeited more often than other Swiss watches. Therefore, when buying, it is important to be able to distinguish the original Rolex from a fake. To make sure that you have a real brand watch in front of you, pay attention to a few details.

Look at the progress of the second hand. It should move smoothly, without sharp jerks. In fact, the movement of the Rolex hand is not perfectly smooth – about 8 micro jerks per second, but this is impossible to notice with the naked eye.

Bring the watch to your ear. You should not hear a distinct tick. Rolex movements operate silently, unlike low-quality fakes.

Examine the watch glass. Rolex uses only sapphire glass, which is scratch-resistant. If you drop water on it, it will not spread and forms a neat drop on the surface. Take a closer look at the glass around the number 6 – all models since 2000 have a small crown engraved on the back. It should be hard to see, it is better to use a magnifying glass. If there is no crown, or vice versa, it is very noticeable, it is a fake.

Examine the small details: inscriptions, engravings, magnifying lenses on the date windows. Everything should be neat, clear, of high quality. Pay special attention to the lens – it should increase the numbers. In fakes, ordinary glass is used.

Evaluate the quality of materials. The original Rolex does not use plastic or aluminum parts, artificial leather on the straps, glass on the back. If it is difficult to distinguish materials at a glance, estimate the weight of the watch – suspicious lightness indicates that it is made of light metals and is a fake.