Rare species of saltwater crocodiles and ramchirayas! Want to meet them? So let’s go to the Bhitarkanika National Park in Odisha! Finding Bhitarkanika in Google Maps and looking at it closely, your heart will be filled with greenery National Park / Wildlife Sanctuary area on the north-east coast of Odisha.
Flowing eastwards into the Bay of Bengal, the Brahmani, Vaitarni, Dhamra, and Pathsal rivers create and feed this globally important wetland. Located in the Kendrapara district of Odisha, India’s second-largest mangrove ecosystem is fed by this wetland area. Surrounding this national park spread over an area of 145 square kilometers, there is an additional area of 670 square kilometers of the wildlife sanctuary.
We arrived at the ‘Sand Pebbles Bhitarkanika Jungle Resort Tent House’ complex one evening while visiting the Buddhist heritage sites at Udayagiri, Ratnagiri, and Lalitgiri caves by road from Bhubaneswar.
Boating in Bhitarkanika National Park
On the second day in the morning, we woke up blindfolded. The urgency to meet the saltwater crocodiles was making a ruckus.
But the environment was not ready to support us. There was heavy fog all around. We had to wait a long time for the haze to clear.
We couldn’t see anything beyond a few meters while walking through the village trails. We fully imagined that the haze near the gulf would be even more intense. After waiting for more than an hour, we were flagged off by the Forest Department officials.
Then began our boating in the net of creeks and backwaters! Our boat was an engine-powered yacht. These types of boats are allowed to ride in this national park.
Each boat can accommodate around 12 to 20 people. These waters float slowly on the surface so that we can see the surrounding landscape. These boats also have toilets which is an extremely important feature.
The calm waters of the Bhitarkanika National Park are actually about 20 to 30 feet deep. Its depth may change during monsoons and tides. The major creeks are about 100 meters wide. Some parts of this net of the bay are narrow and also very shallow.
Lions, tigers, wild elephants, rhinos, deer, etc. are very popular in most of the national parks of India. In contrast, the major attraction of Bhitarkanika National Park is the mighty saltwater crocodile.
At a distance of every few meters, you will see herds of crocodiles, big and small, bathing in the sun. Not only this, the creeks, islands, lush green backwaters, landscapes, and dense forests within which you can take a walk, all seem eager and ready to captivate your mind.
Saltwater Crocodile
If we talk about the best habitat for saltwater crocodiles in India, then perhaps there cannot be a more suitable place than Bhitarkanika. Nutrient backwaters, an ample network of Gulf waterways, rivers, Bay of Bengal, all provide abundant resources for them. If Bhitarkanika has any closest competitor, it is Sundarbans.
By the 1970s, all three species of crocodile, crocodile, and saltwater crocodile were almost on the verge of extinction in the river system of Odisha.
The long journey from less than 100 saltwater crocodiles to more than 1700 crocodiles today took the Dangmal river system four decades.
Most of these crocodiles are found in the region from the Khol-Brahmani river confluence to the Bhitarkanika-Pathsal river confluence.
Some interesting information about these giant saltwater crocodiles:
At birth, their weight is less than 100 grams. By reaching puberty, their weight reaches up to 1000 kg.
These crocodiles, less than a foot long from birth, grow to more than 20 feet long.
Their first 10 years are probably the most difficult period for them in nature as only 1% of newborns survive by surviving predators and natural disasters.
Male and female crocodiles mate during the rainy season. Therefore, this national park is closed to tourists from 1 May to 31 July every year.
Although adult crocodiles are very sensitive to their territory throughout the year and are ready to fight for their territory till death, the same crocodiles become very sociable in the rainy season.
The meat of any kind is their food and the appetite of large adult crocodiles is satisfied only by large prey.
Humans are also excellent prey for large adult crocodiles.
Moving with great speed and agility, they immediately catch the prey present in the water and on the shore in their jaws.
The grip strength of their jaws is considered to be relatively more powerful than other mammals. Once he has caught a victim in his jaw, then either the victim has to lose his life or at least lose the part which is trapped in the jaw.
They lay 4 to 5 dozen eggs. To lay eggs, they often go above the surface of the tidal water to keep their eggs safe. Both male and female crocodiles protect the young from the eggs until they are hatched. Their eggs are the favorite food of iguanas reptiles which are more agile than crocodiles on land.
Crocodiles prey on mammals ranging from fish, crabs, and birds to wild boars, and deer.
At the same time, vultures like an eagle, hawk, and kankai prey on the newborn babies of crocodiles.
lazy
Crocodiles are generally the most sluggish creatures in the region compared to other wildlife. During a 5-hour walk to the Bhitarkanika National Park, we saw many crocodiles lazily on the shore enjoying the warmth of the sun.
Looking at them, it seemed as if they were free from all kinds of worries. Only a few crocodiles were swimming in the water. Maybe they’ll be hungry.
Among these crocodiles, two of the largest male crocodiles are such that are visible in every boat ride in this area. Local guides call them by the names of Kalia and Balia.
Breeding Center of Saltwater Crocodiles
There is a crocodile breeding center on one of the islands we visited. Here the newborn babies of crocodiles have looked after.
Every year, their safety is ensured by separating them according to age. For the first 10 years of their life, their every need is taken care of, such as their safety, food, medical attention, other natural calamities of the forest area, etc.
The area is also a study center for veterinarians. Crocodiles are carefully released into the wild after the age of 10 years. At that time care is taken to ensure that the occupied territory of an aggressive adult crocodile is not violated.
It takes an additional 10 to 15 minutes to visit the fertility center. You can see the development of babies of different age groups here.
Nearby in a water tank, we saw a colorless crocodile called Gori. The color of his skin was very light, with a slight yellowish tinge. Some cubs of the same color were also visible to us in the forest area.
Museum
There is a small educational museum on the island where a skeleton of 19.8 feet is kept. This is the skeleton of a saltwater crocodile who died naturally in this national park.
When you stand near it, you can feel its huge size. You can check its anatomy up close. At first glance, it appears to be a precise mechanical specimen. You will not be left without admiring this exquisite creation of nature when examined closely.
None of us has the courage to stand near a living crocodile. Anyway, taking such courage is literally inviting death. So don’t even think of doing this in your mind.
Otherwise, the thrill of a few moments can turn life into death. At the time of visiting this national park, the park officials give a lot of weight to this subject and never allow getting off the boat and going very near to the water.
But you can fulfill the wish of standing near a crocodile by standing near this skeleton of the museum.
The skulls of skeletons of crocodiles, deer, dolphins, etc. are also kept in this museum. It is not possible to ignore the enormity of their sizes.
Apart from this, you can also see pictures of the fauna, birds, and flora found in the Bhitarkanika National Park. An average time of 10 to 20 minutes is sufficient to visit the museum. Only one thing felt inferior. A brochure providing all the information about the park that tourists can take with them.
Refreshments
By the time we reached the island while boating in the park, we were very tired. It was heartening to see the facilities of drinking water, toilets, and battery-operated rickshaws available on the island.
Even more, it was heartwarming to see the stalls selling fresh soft coconuts. We quenched our appetites by drinking fresh coconut water. Once again there was energy in the body. Anyway, we still had an hour left for our lunch.
Hiking in the Woods
We walked for 3 to 4 kilometers in the dense mangroves located in the forest of the island. For our convenience, the Forest Department has fixed step-ways.
Along with this, the Forest Department has also appointed guides or guides, without whom it is almost impossible to travel on foot in this forest.
I recommend that you do not even attempt to go on these trails without a guide. These trails can prove to be extremely confusing for tourists and they can easily get lost in them.
In these forests, there are snakes, pythons, wild boars, iguanas, spotted deer, and many other wild animals. So be careful and walk on the designated routes only.
Keep your eyes open for snakes. We did not see snakes during the journey, but that does not mean that you should ignore them.
The rays of the sun filtering through the lush green canopy of dense trees, the vines draped over the tree trunks, the many small ponds on the way, and the shadow of the trees swaying on the water of the pond were all very dreamy. Beholding them was a mesmerizing experience in itself.
The ponds surrounded by lush green forests were presenting a wonderful sight. We stayed near most of these ponds and imbibed each and every element of nature peacefully.
The perfect harmony of these wonderful elements of nature and the Maya spread by them had left an indelible mark on our minds and brain. There were many water birds in the water of the pond. It was not possible to reach very close to him and the sunlight was also not enough. So we could not take photographs of those birds.
Iguanas
While walking in the forest, we must have seen an iguana. By the side of the road, lying motionless in idleness. As soon as we tried to take photographs, she got lost somewhere in the thick bushes, running from there galloping.
Many birds make hundreds of nests on top of the trees of this mangrove forest during the rainy season. But then there is a ban on the arrival of tourists here.
This is the time when research can be done about these birds and good photographs of them can be taken. It can be inferred from the fact that this park is extremely important for migratory birds.
Shiv Temple
Wandering through the forest, while going from one ferry pier to another, we saw the high scaffolding from which the forest is observed. From here the sight of migratory birds is also kept.
We saw a strange structure of two floors built in concrete with many square holes. When asked, our guide smiled and replied that it was the hunting ground of the kings of ancient times.
Animals were hunted by standing inside the structure and placing guns in these holes. This structure appeared to me like a porous concrete cage. Hiding behind this structure, the kings must have hunted many migratory birds on their way back.
A bright green-colored Shiva temple stood out because of its color. It is a small temple and its style is similar to other Odisha temples for the huge Amalaki.
The temple was closed at that time. A small Nandi was sitting outside as if guarding the temple. There was a Tulsi plant in a pyramid-shaped pot.
Nearby was another small stone temple dedicated to Van Durga. There were many idols inside this small and dilapidated temple and some idols were also outside.
Signs of regular worship were visible here. But since it was noon, no one was present there at that time.
Rare Ramchiriya bird
Ramchiriya is one of the commonly found birds in India. We have seen these everywhere. 6 different species of Ramchiriya are found in this dense mangrove of Bhitarkanika.
This was our first time seeing 3 of them. This was also the purpose of visiting this national park. We knew that these species are always seen in this park. While we waited for our boat to start, our guide showed us some photographs of these birds that he had captured on his mobile. That piqued our curiosity even more.
Ramchiraiya with brown feathers, Ramchiriya with black cap, and Ramchiriya with neckband, it was like icing on our gold to see them all.
We had heard that these birds are also seen at the mouth of the Zuari river in Goa. But there is a need for a coordinated regular ferry service and guide.
Ramchiraiya with brown feathers, Ramchiriya with black cap, and Ramchiriya with neckband, it was like icing on our gold to see them all. We had heard that these birds are also seen at the mouth of the Zuari river in Goa. But there is a need for a coordinated regular ferry service and guide.
Our guide’s experienced eyes were able to spot the birds from afar. As soon as our boatman realized our interest in wild animals,
he happily turned the boat around and took us to a place from where we had a better view. We were also helped to take excellent photographs of birds.
The boat is never completely quiet as it is motorized. Therefore, a powerful lens and a very moving camera are required to take photographs of birds.
The best place for bird watching is the lower branches of mangroves growing near the bay. Keep praying that these birds do not hide behind the leaves or fly away and go somewhere else.
The other 3 species of Ramchiraiya were those that we can see near any water source across the country, namely, Common Ramchiraiya, Shvetkanthi Ramchiraiya, and Pitted Ramchiraiya.
Other Birds
While boating along the bay and hiking in the jungle, you can spot many birds like herons and egrets, herons, vultures, kanakas, hawks, etc.
While walking in the thick mangrove forest, we heard the whispers of some woodpeckers. They were dwarf woodpeckers. Due to the shade created by the cover of mangrove trees, we could not take clean photographs of them.
