First of all, I want to make sure that the latest in crown molding, so, of course, should go with plastic. However, if you are thinking about how to install the plastic molding. This post is for you.
Numerous styles are available in the market in recent times. Hence it is common that relatively simple to incredibly complex styles can be found. Interestingly, the low density of plastic helps reduce weight and costs. So, it can be said that plastic crown moldings are the best works made in plaster only found in great vintage homes.
How to install plastic molding
Drill clearance holes
First, you need to drill a 5/32-inch shank clearance hole in the tabs of each block. Then the threads of this # 8×2-inch roundhead screw will not hang on the plastic.
Screw to wall
After drilling the shank clearance hole, screw the blocks into the wall. And notice it continues from the ceiling to the square. It is important to remember not to overdrive the screws. Or you may want to risk breaking the plastic. To finish a race at the end of this episode, you must cut a tab from a block with your hands.
Mark Stud location
At this stage, you need to strip the stud finder and masking tape to mark the location of each stud on the wall. Then finish measuring in one pair of blocks. At the same time make sure a snug fit and add 1/4 inch to do the same. Then you will be able to mark this dimension on the length of the mold.
Cut to size
Cut the mold to length, so the one-meter saw will start working faster (which isn’t great news). Interestingly, a handshake at that time is just as effective. In this case, if you want to choose the manual route. You need to cut straight through the mold supplier and cut through it squarely.
Ensure a snug fit and to do this you will need to apply the glue recommended by the manufacturer to the bedding edge of the mold. On the other hand, it is the edges of the bed that are the molding surface that will be able to communicate with the wall and ceiling.
You can hire a helper to snap the mold into the space between the blocks. As a result, it will be easier to work on the part. This is because you need to make sure that the bottom edge needs is made before you can match the depth markings of the mold.
In step 8 you need to carefully secure the molding with a 2-inch trim-head screw driven into each stud. If you’re thinking of slim square-drive trim screws, the good news is that pilot holes aren’t needed.
Fill the hole
This last step is to remove the excess glue. And to do this you can take the help of a putty knife and mineral spirits. To begin this work first do not screw with a paintable coil that is compatible with a mold and fill a hole. We further advise you to do this on any gap cover along the wall and ceiling. Always try to follow the manufacturer’s paint recommendations. This will give you maximum experience.