As a climber, you will come across different kinds of holds. Some can be easy to overcome; some are difficult to cross. How can you understand which hold is most difficult for you? There is no way to understand, apparently. You can gradually understand by starting the journey. If you are a beginner, you’ll face many difficulties whereas, if you’re a pro or experienced climber, you may face a few numbers of difficulties. By understanding the weak points, you can rectify them. Similarly, if you can understand which hold is hardest for you, then you can take the required precautions.
However, crimps and Slippers are generally considered to be difficult. Crimps are a skill that requires a specific set of muscles, which can take many years to master. Slippers can be held in place by using an open grip and friction.
If you’re not well trained, no hold will be helpful. However, if you’re extremely trained, any hold won’t be difficult. Let’s talk about different types of holds and how they can be used in a broad range
You can come across different kinds of climbing holds of different colors and shapes…
Outdoor crags are best for finding their real-world inspirations. These will subtly blend in with the rock face.
To overcome the difficulty level, you need to understand the name and probable position of each hold so that you can climb the wall without facing much! This article will brief you on the nature of holds and how to cross them or use them.
You can get the most from any hold by using two techniques:
- Hold as much as you can ( until you feel the pumping jark). It is because blood flow to the arms will be increased when they are tensed.
- Keep your eyes in the direction where your core is pulling. Pull perpendicularly to the hold to get the best grip. You’ll be less likely not to fall off the rock if you align your weight with that direction.
Climbing Holds
Jug/Bucket
Jugs have large, open handles that you can use your entire hand to reach. Because they are so easy to hold and provide excellent rest, jugs are most people’s favorite.
Edge/Ledge
The most common hold you will find is the edge. These can be small dime edges that are barely wide enough to fit your toes, long cuts in the wall that allow for both hands, or large ledges that you can use to lift your entire body onto at the top.
Edges can face any direction, so be sure to nail the direction of pull.
Crimp
A crimp is a small edge that is only large enough to reach your fingertips. You can achieve a better angle for this small hold by putting your body weight closer to the wall. Crimp keeps you connected throughout the time.
Two different methods of holding the crimp
- Full or closed crimp: Your knuckles are sharp, and your thumb is over your fingers to increase power. This position can be stressful for finger tendons, so be cautious.
- Open grip You place your fingertips on the edge of the wall, and the rest of the hand is draped against the wall. Unless you require full crimping, this grip is less stressful for your tendons and should be your default grip.
Pinch
A pinch is exactly as it sounds: any piece of rock you can pinch with one hand and your thumb the other. Your thumb is so powerful at gripping the rock you should use it whenever possible.
Sloper
Slopers are large bulges that have no positive angle and require your hands to grasp. Although they can be difficult, good technique will make it easy to climb slopey routes.
- Your body position is important: To keep your balance and prevent pulling, you need to maintain a low center of gravity.
- Look out for gripping features such as Dimples and small bulges. To maximize friction, place your entire hand in contact with the surface. Then, move on to the next hold.
Pockets are drilled holes in the rock. Pockets can be small enough to fit just one finger or large enough for your entire hand. Our middle finger is the strongest finger.
Pockets can be pulled in any direction, so you are free to use whatever method you like. Be careful not to strain your fingers’ tendons.
Subcloning
An undercling, as the name suggests, is any hold that you grab from the bottom to allow you to pull up. A good under-cling requires you to have good footholds that will enable you to maintain your body tension while you reach for the next hold.
Flake
Flakes are small piece of rock that has fallen off the wall and left a crack between the giant rock and it. Some flakes can be jammed just like a crack. However, it is often simpler to wrap your hands around the flake and then lay back on edge.
Irrespective of hold difficulties, you need to practice grip strengthening exercises. Strengthen your forearms and finger joints using a smart grip trainer.
