A miter saw is the device for projects that call for exact lumber and moulding cuts– especially angles. Yet the device named for reducing miters does so far more.
Kinds Of Miter Saws
With a board level on the base of a miter saw, any angled cross the vast face counts as a “miter” on any type of miter saw. Turn the board on its side, location it against the fencing, as well as you’ll cut a “bevel.” The majority of saws cut from 90 to 45 levels in both instructions, as well as some saws can reduce up to 55-degree angles.
Saws begin to vary when you look at their blade size– frequently 10 inches or 12 inches. The larger the blade, the deeper and also larger its maximum cut. Typically, a 10-inch miter saw will certainly cut a 2 x 6 at 90 degrees and also a 2 x 4 at 45 degrees; a 12-inch miter saw will certainly reduce a 2 x 8 at 90 levels and a 2 x 6 at 45 degrees.
Saws additionally vary by whether the blade arm just turns (a standard miter saw) or both swings as well as slides (a moving miter saw). The gliding activity can reduce even broader boards. A 12-inch version, for instance, will certainly cut a 2 x 16 at 90 degrees as well as a 2 x 12 at 45 degrees.
Either can come to be a substance saw– the blade arm both swings at an angle as well as tilts at an angle to the bed of the table to cut both a bevel and also miter at the same time. This is mostly used to reduce crown moulding.
Reducing with a Miter Saw
The cut angle and also wood thickness identify where the blade will certainly get in touch with the material. When marking a board, expand the line across the supply, go down the blade to the timber to inspect your placement, and also adjust the board as required before beginning the saw.
When you’re cutting a board, rest more than half its length on the saw. If the board is also long, stack a few scraps next to the saw to sustain the overhanging board. For a timesaving remedy, mount your saw on a saw stand with supports for lengthy stock.
Area the stock versus the fence at the back of the saw base, and hold it with your hands (or a clamp) at the very least 6 inches from the blade. Never cross your arms when operating the saw.
Beginning the saw on top of the operating setting, permit the electric motor to come up to speed, and bring the saw down right into the timber. When the board is cut right with, release the trigger and allow the blade to entirely quit before you raise the blade.
Learn the types of cuts you can make with a miter saw. Enjoy our Do It Yourself Essential video clip:
Two Time-Savers
You can accelerate repetitive cuts in 2 means: Rather than separately measuring components for identical routes, mark the part size on an item of covering up tape connected to the fencing. After that eliminate the tape when you’re done.
With the saw unplugged and also the blade down, measure from the blade teeth to a factor on the fence equal to the component size.
With the end of a board pressed gently versus the block, make your cut. Each part you cut after that will be the very same size– simply blow away any kind of sawdust that can pile up against the quit block.
Quick Tips for Miter Saw Success
• Constantly cut the manufacturing facility end from a board before gauging and cutting a component for much better fit and much less sanding.
• Allow the saw do the job; do not compel the blade via the timber.
• More teeth amounts to smoother cuts. Make use of a blade with more than 50 teeth for building and construction cuts. For great cuts, such as moulding, use a blade with greater than 90 teeth.
• Treated lumber normally has a greater dampness web content than building lumber, so use a lower tooth count even for great cuts. The open spaces between the teeth get rid of the debris as well as placed much less pressure on the motor.
• If possible, cut one angle end of a part prior to you mark and reduce the opposite end.
