A miter saw is the tool for projects that call for accurate lumber as well as moulding cuts– especially angles. But the device named for cutting miters does so a lot more.

Types of Miter Saws

With a board flat on the base of a miter saw, any type of angled cut across the large face counts as a “miter” on any kind of miter saw. Transform the board on its edge, area it versus the fence, and also you’ll reduce a “bevel.” A lot of saws cut from 90 to 45 degrees in both instructions, and some saws can reduce up to 55-degree angles.

Saws start to differ when you check out their blade diameter– generally 10 inches or 12 inches. The bigger the blade, the deeper and larger its maximum cut. Normally, a 10-inch miter saw will cut a 2 x 6 at 90 levels and also a 2 x 4 at 45 degrees; a 12-inch miter saw will certainly cut a 2 x 8 at 90 degrees as well as a 2 x 6 at 45 degrees.

Saws likewise differ by whether the blade arm just turns (a basic miter saw) or both swings and slides (a moving miter saw). The gliding action can reduce also broader boards. A 12-inch variation, as an example, will certainly reduce a 2 x 16 at 90 levels as well as a 2 x 12 at 45 levels.

Either can end up being a substance saw– the blade arm both swings at an angle as well as turns at an angle to the bed of the table to cut both a bevel as well as miter at the same time. This is primarily made use of to cut crown moulding.

Reducing with a Miter Saw

The cut angle as well as wood density establish where the blade will contact the material. When marking a board, expand the line across the supply, drop the blade to the timber to examine your positioning, as well as adjust the board as required prior to beginning the saw.

When you’re reducing a board, rest majority its length on the saw. If the board is too long, pile a few scraps next to the saw to sustain the looming board. For a timesaving solution, install your saw on a saw stand with assistances for lengthy stock.

Location the supply against the fencing at the rear of the saw base, and hold it with your hands (or a clamp) at the very least 6 inches from the blade. Just then must you begin the saw.

Constantly keep your various other hand on the saw take care of. Both arms ought to be straight out in front of you, and your feet securely planted.

Never cross your arms when running the saw.

Beginning the saw at the top of the operating setting, allow the electric motor to come up to speed, and also bring the saw down into the timber. When the board is cut completely with, launch the trigger and also allow the blade to entirely quit prior to you elevate the blade.

Learn the sorts of cuts you can make with a miter saw. View our Do It Yourself Essential video:

Two Time-Savers

You can accelerate repetitive cuts in two methods: As opposed to separately determining components for similar routes, mark the part length on a piece of masking tape attached to the fence. Then remove the tape when you’re done.

For also better accuracy, connect a stop block. Affix items of double-face carpeting tape to the back face of a 3/4-inch-thick timber scrap. With the saw unplugged and the blade down, step from the blade teeth to a factor undecided equivalent to the component length. There, press the taped block against the fencing.

With the end of a board pushed gently against the block, make your cut. Each part you cut afterwards will coincide length– simply surprise any type of sawdust that can accumulate versus the stop block.

Quick Tips for Miter Saw Success

• Always cut the factory end from a board before measuring and reducing a part for far better fit as well as much less sanding.

• Allow the saw do the work; do not require the blade via the timber.

• More teeth amounts to smoother cuts. Utilize a blade with greater than 50 teeth for building cuts. For fine cuts, such as moulding, use a blade with more than 90 teeth.

• Dealt with lumber usually has a greater dampness web content than construction lumber, so utilize a reduced tooth count also for great cuts. The open areas in between the teeth clear the debris as well as placed much less pressure on the motor.

• When possible, cut one angle end of a component prior to you mark as well as cut the opposite end.